THE BLOG: let's talk gardening

Trash cans, air conditioners, chain-link fences, sometimes even your neighbor’s house -- these are just a few of the things that can interfere with the beauty of your landscape. But these eyesores don't have to be the focal point. Check out these ideas on how you can use plants and garden structures to magically make these blemishes disappear:

Trees & Shrubs – Both trees and shrubs are versatile and can be used as a natural screen to block out unsightly distractions and even noise. Trees can grow from 10 to over 50 feet tall making them the perfect choice to hide a neighbor’s house, shed or nearby buildings. Shrubs are useful for lower vantage points and can grow up to 8 feet tall. Place them in front of or around heating and cooling units, swimming pool mechanicals, utility meters, and trash cans. We recommend Chindo Viburnum, Cleyera, Ligustrum, and Bayberry (Wax Myrtle).

Trellis with Climbing Vines – A garden trellis laced with perennial climbing vines with large foliage and beautiful blooming flowers can create a privacy screen that can block out most landscape eyesores while infusing a pop of color to an otherwise ordinary space. Most perennial vines need little in the way of care other than water and pruning to ensure they grow strong and come back every year. We recommend Madison Jasmine, Clematis, Climbing Hydrangea, Wisteria, and Sweet Pea.

Lattice or Fencing – Construct a simple space for your garbage can by arranging two tall pieces of wooden lattice or fencing at right angles against your house or garage. Be sure to leave an area open in the back so you can easily roll the trash can in and out. And, of course add some flair by planting Ivy, Clematis, Sweet Pea, Honeysuckle, Climbing Roses or other vines and train them to climb up the lattice.

This is the time of year when weeds, especially the weed known as nutsedge, really start creeping into our landscapes. Nutsedge is one of those turfgrass weeds that can drive a homeowner nuts. Also known as nutgrass or swampgrass, these weeds are extremely aggressive and frequently infest local lawns, vegetable and flower gardens.

Most nutsedges are perennials (meaning they come back year after year) whose leaves die back in the fall when temperatures begin to drop. Nutsedge prefers moist soil, although it can thrive in almost any kind of soil – even dry soil. These pesky weeds spread by either small tubers, by creeping rhizomes or by seed. New tubers begin forming four to six weeks after a new shoot emerges. Individual nutsedge plants can form patches up to 10 feet or more in diameter.

Nutsedge can be very tricky to get rid of and controlling it is likely to be a lengthy process. Long term control includes both cultural and chemical management methods. Once controlled, sanitation is required to prevent new infestations. Any new outbreak should be managed immediately to prevent the spread of additional weeds. The most effective way to control nutsedge is by employing a combination of several different methods.

Here are some ways to control nutsedge in your landscape:

• Follow all recommended practices for your grass type including mowing at the ideal height, applying fertilizer at the proper rate and time, and maintaining the ideal soil PH.
• Proper watering is key, since nutsedge thrives in excessively moist soil, so be aware of the amount and timing of irrigation. Poor drainage can also create the perfect environment for nutsedge.
• Monitor and treat insect and disease infestations to prevent bare spots that may become infested by nutsedge.
• Thoroughly clean tools and equipment such as tillers that have been used in an infested area to avoid spreading tubers and rhizome.
• Eliminate very small patches of nutsedge by digging. Ensure removal of the spreading tubers by digging at least 10 inches deep and eight to ten inches beyond the diameter of the above-ground plant. This is best done early in the spring before more tubers are produced.
• Control chemically with post-emergence herbicides. Because different herbicides are effective against different species, it is important to correctly identify the nutsedge species in your lawn. Herbicides also vary regarding the plants they can be safely used around without causing damage. Always check the label to make sure the pesticide you choose is safe for surrounding plants. Our experts recommend Hi-Yield Nutsedge Control. This selective post emergent herbicide can be used in landscaped areas or lawns. May be used on both cool and warm season turfgrass including: Bahia, Bermuda, Centipede, Creeping Bentgrass, Kentucky Bluegrass, St. Augustine, Tall and Fine Fescue, Perennial Ryegrass and Zoysia.

Learn to recognize Nutsedge to avoid accidentally bringing it in topsoil or plants. Here's a few tips on identifying nutsedge:

Yellow nutsedge is most easily identified by the triangular shape of the stem. If you roll the stem of the plant in your fingers, you should be able to feel the triangular shape. The leaves are light green to yellowish and are slick or waxy to the touch. It grows most actively during the hot summer months. Typically, the leaves will grow 2 to 4 inches above the turf canopy. Yellow nutsedge is not as easy to see in early spring and in fall, when temperatures are cooler and growth is slower.

We are crazy for Crepe Myrtles this time of year, especially our littlest Crepe... the Orchid Cascade!

Sometimes referred to as the mini Crepe Myrtle, the blooms on this unique crepe spill to the ground in a waterfall of color, and the size make is perfect for almost anywhere. Classified as a compact grower, the Cascade Orchid variety is more of a flowering shrub only growing 12 to 16 inches tall and spreading 3 to 4 feet wide.

It will fit into almost any landscape due to the size and adds color all summer and fall. The orchid-lavender colored blooms pour down to the ground, bringing big color into small spaces! This variety will works well for formal and informal landscapes, and can also be planted for a low growing hedge. It is also great for planting in the front yard, as it will not get so large. Provide full sun for the best blooms but light shade will also be tolerated. Once established, this Crepe Myrtle is highly drought tolerant and only needs supplemental watering in times of prolonged drought.

One hundred days of exquisite summer blooms, attractive fall foliage, unique bark, good disease and insect resistance and drought-tolerance ~ what's not to like about Crepe Myrtles!

One of our favorite varieties is the 'Natchez' Crepe Myrtle, ideal tree for either formal or informal landscapes, and has become one of summer's most beautiful ornamental trees, thanks to its large clusters of white blooms that last from June through September. This tree is perfect in beds, borders, for screening or simply as a focal point in the landscape.

Natchez is a relatively fast growing tree ~ growing approximately three to five feet per year, and reaching approximately 20 to 30 feet at maturity! This sun-loving tree needs full sun to flourish and produce the largest number of blooms. Although, Natchez can survive with a small amount of shade, the number of blooms will be greatly reduced. The tree's deep green leaves in summer provide the ideal backdrop for its vivid white blooms. In fall, leaves will take on fall hues of yellow, orange and red. In winter, it features a smooth, dark cinnamon-brown, exfoliating bark that provides unique visual interest throughout the winter months. And as if this is not enough, Natchez has amazing resistance to disease and is NOT susceptible to powdery mildew.

Be sure to check out the Natchez, as well as the many other Crepe Myrtle varieties during our 30th annual Crepe Myrtle Fest, July 21-23. Get the scoop here >>